Sex machines with baldor motor. Electric Sex Machines.



Sex machines with baldor motor

Sex machines with baldor motor

Spanking Machines Fucking Machine Parts for the Do-It-Yourselfer Whether for the satisfaction of building something with your own hands or compelled by a tight budget without compromising quality, quite a few people simply want to build their own sex machine.

They may not, however, have a complete fabrication shop. Some fucking machine manufacturers seek to dissuade DIY folks from building their own sex machine. If you have a creative bent, enjoy working with your hands, and have some basic building skills, I highly recommend you build a fucking machine. Welcome to the largest selection of sex machine parts that I know of. Here you'll find all of the mechanical stuff you need to build the sex machine of your dreams, along with a bit of advice and commentary from Mr.

Sex Machine himself ; Many of these parts and components are the same high quality pieces used on fine handcrafted machines from Orgasm Alley, designs proven over more than a dozen years in the market with thousands of customers. These are parts you can trust. My objective is generally to provide the unique parts needed for a fucking machine build, while limiting cost to make it happen. When a good used or surplus option is possible -- such as motors -- I'll offer those at a significant dicount when I can.

I've been selling parts to builders longer than I've been selling sex machines, and have helped hundreds upon hundreds of people build a fucking machine. Please note that I am not in the business of "DIY sex machine builder training"! While I am happy to provide a bit of advice, I do not provide sex machine design or troubleshooting consultation. Sex machine parts are either in-stock or fabricated on demand, and generally ship within a week of your order.

Please review your order with care. Although I will inquire if you order parts that do not work with each other, sex machine parts may not be returned, and orders may not be cancelled once placed. If you have any questions, please do not hesitate to ask via email to paul orgasmalley. I don't include pictures of motors, nor send them upon request. They're described with brutal honestly, and frankly I don't have enough margin on motors to spend that time.

The Big Picture View It's important to understand the basic construction of a sex machine, and therefore the way these parts interact to make one function. Each machine requires four basic components -- powerline, motor, power transmission, and dildo system -- connected by a frame or body.

The Powerline connects wall power to the motor, providing a way to operate it and control its speed. The Complete Powerline below is a system I recommend, providing good control over speed and excellent torque in lower speed operation.

This is the same powerline used in my commercial machines. A simple and inexpensive powerline can be made using the schematic at the bottom of this page. I really only recommend this approach for a first-time build, planning to upgrade once your concept has been tested. The Motor is the heart of the machine, and determines its performance characteristics.

Read the section below about "Selecting A Motor" for a bit more information. This is the most important component of your machine. I strongly prefer American made DC motors from the major manufacturers: Baldor, Bison, Bodine, Leeson also makes Dayton brand. When possible, I source surplus and used motors with interesting specs and offer them on this page at a good price. The Power Transmission converts the motor's rotary motion to linear movement and provides multiple stroke length options.

Below you'll find two quite different styles, available as complete setups or individual parts. Review these diagrams for an overview of these two systems and their parts. Note that these two pictures show completed machines, as available from Orgasmalley. The frames shown in these pictures are not available for purchase, and are not included in the Power Transmission part sets they are used to depict.

The dildo system, obviously enough, holds the dildo to the machine. Also in this category are other accessories I do offer a range of these accessories including two dildo systems.. All of these items are available for purchase on the Accessories page of this site. Motor Terminology Here's a quick rundown of some motor factoids that might be helpful to you.

A general assessment of motor power is horsepower, officially More important is the combination of RPM and torque. The RPM, or revolutions per minute, determines the stroking speed of the machine, while the torgue indicates the sort of play and size of toy with which it will perform acceptably.

If you see a motor taking in 60 watts 4 amps at 15 volts with a claimed horsepower rating of 0. You get the lies for free. For a sex machine, you want a gearmotor, a motor that directly drives a gear reduction system to provide a reduced output speed and increased torque.

I cannot count the number of people who have tried building a sex machine from a treadmill motor Gearmotors come in two basic configurations.

Parallel shaft gearmotors have the output parallel to the armature or motor can , while in right angle motors the output shaft is at a right angle to the armature. Most parallel shaft motors are face mount, mounting with typically four bolts into the face of the motor, the same end the output shaft is on. Most right angle units are foot mount, with bolts running into the base of the gearbox. Some motors of either style incorporate a mounting plate from the motor can.

There are occasionally face mount right angle motors, too. This must match the mounting diameter of the offset pin arm or flywheel used with the motor. Output shafts generally have a keyway, and at least with my parts you will tighten a set screw into the keyway to hold the offset part in place. Some motors also or only have a flat on the shaft. In the torque range on a sex machine, we don't need to employ a key. A motor's voltage is important in the selection or development of a power supply.

I primarily offer motors rated for 90 to volts DC. AC motors can certainly be used, but they are less efficient to control, and controls for them are more expensive. I occasionally have 12 VDC motors. They may be run with the fan control circuit at the bottom of this page, as long as you add a You can hijack one from an old not new battery charger. If you're overseas in a country with VAC power grid, you can either build a VAC machine and employ a voltage converter, or you need a motor rated for VDC.

The Powerline control system below is excellent for either grid power but not 12 volts , but must be matched to an appropriate motor. A brief word about motor brands. First, there is absolutely no comparison between American and Chinese-made motors. Chinese motors are larger and heavier and louder, have soft brushes, and are less efficient. They will happily burn up, especailly if stalled for any length of time. The only advantage is that they're cheap. Unless they're labeled for a US importer, such as Dayton some motors only , they are almost always overrated, particularly in torque.

The major American brands in sub-fractional gearmotors are Bodine, Baldor, and Leeson. Of these, Leeson motors tend to be higher performing units for a given horsepower, and are usually rated for 90 VDC with a "form factor" of 1.

Bodine motors are of extremely high quality, and are the quietest motors available in my opinion. Baldor is also a quieter motor than the Leeson units, which are relatively noisy for an American motor. Finally, you will note that I do not generally have pictures of motors below. I price the used motors at a small markup, and it's frankly not worth my time to take and process pictures of them. Further, many motors I list are gone within a week. I apologize, but I also do not provide pictures on request.

If you do see a motor you want, particularly if the listing does not indicate that I have multiples, and double-particularly if it is a larger higher torque motor, you might want to grab it. Such units do not last long, and it is always a struggle to find them in good condition at an attrictive price. Every used motor I sell is thoroughly tested and accurately described.

Includes Probe frame body, two legs , Probe motor Chinese 90 watt RPM , American-made motor speed control, and all other components to complete a Probe machine. Kit does not include a dildo system Link to comprehensive video instructions provided. Probe Plus Complete Kit: Beast model provides strokes to 8", 45 in-lbs torque for exceptional performance. Probe Beast Complete Kit: High quality motor control, fully adjustable for both minimum speed and maximum speed. This control will overvolt most motors if desired, which is generally safe to about 1.

IR COMP setting senses motor draw versus set speed, and feeds more power to motor when choking under load Includes power cord, OrgasmAlley hand control with XLR plug, wired power and control jacks, blade connectors, wire nut for grounds.

This is a complete solution between the wall and a motor, not including either the wall or the motor. Cast aluminum double-gang exterior-grade box with steel cover, modified to mount contol board and two jacks.

This aluminum enclosure also provides heat sink capacity, increasing Powerline capability from 2A to 4A. Painted black, four screws that hold cover to box is the only included hardware. Not as precise as more complex units, far inferior to powerline 2 above.

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Sex machines with baldor motor

Spanking Machines Fucking Machine Parts for the Do-It-Yourselfer Whether for the satisfaction of building something with your own hands or compelled by a tight budget without compromising quality, quite a few people simply want to build their own sex machine. They may not, however, have a complete fabrication shop. Some fucking machine manufacturers seek to dissuade DIY folks from building their own sex machine. If you have a creative bent, enjoy working with your hands, and have some basic building skills, I highly recommend you build a fucking machine.

Welcome to the largest selection of sex machine parts that I know of. Here you'll find all of the mechanical stuff you need to build the sex machine of your dreams, along with a bit of advice and commentary from Mr.

Sex Machine himself ; Many of these parts and components are the same high quality pieces used on fine handcrafted machines from Orgasm Alley, designs proven over more than a dozen years in the market with thousands of customers.

These are parts you can trust. My objective is generally to provide the unique parts needed for a fucking machine build, while limiting cost to make it happen. When a good used or surplus option is possible -- such as motors -- I'll offer those at a significant dicount when I can. I've been selling parts to builders longer than I've been selling sex machines, and have helped hundreds upon hundreds of people build a fucking machine.

Please note that I am not in the business of "DIY sex machine builder training"! While I am happy to provide a bit of advice, I do not provide sex machine design or troubleshooting consultation. Sex machine parts are either in-stock or fabricated on demand, and generally ship within a week of your order. Please review your order with care. Although I will inquire if you order parts that do not work with each other, sex machine parts may not be returned, and orders may not be cancelled once placed.

If you have any questions, please do not hesitate to ask via email to paul orgasmalley. I don't include pictures of motors, nor send them upon request. They're described with brutal honestly, and frankly I don't have enough margin on motors to spend that time. The Big Picture View It's important to understand the basic construction of a sex machine, and therefore the way these parts interact to make one function.

Each machine requires four basic components -- powerline, motor, power transmission, and dildo system -- connected by a frame or body. The Powerline connects wall power to the motor, providing a way to operate it and control its speed. The Complete Powerline below is a system I recommend, providing good control over speed and excellent torque in lower speed operation. This is the same powerline used in my commercial machines. A simple and inexpensive powerline can be made using the schematic at the bottom of this page.

I really only recommend this approach for a first-time build, planning to upgrade once your concept has been tested. The Motor is the heart of the machine, and determines its performance characteristics. Read the section below about "Selecting A Motor" for a bit more information. This is the most important component of your machine. I strongly prefer American made DC motors from the major manufacturers: Baldor, Bison, Bodine, Leeson also makes Dayton brand.

When possible, I source surplus and used motors with interesting specs and offer them on this page at a good price. The Power Transmission converts the motor's rotary motion to linear movement and provides multiple stroke length options. Below you'll find two quite different styles, available as complete setups or individual parts.

Review these diagrams for an overview of these two systems and their parts. Note that these two pictures show completed machines, as available from Orgasmalley. The frames shown in these pictures are not available for purchase, and are not included in the Power Transmission part sets they are used to depict.

The dildo system, obviously enough, holds the dildo to the machine. Also in this category are other accessories I do offer a range of these accessories including two dildo systems..

All of these items are available for purchase on the Accessories page of this site. Motor Terminology Here's a quick rundown of some motor factoids that might be helpful to you. A general assessment of motor power is horsepower, officially More important is the combination of RPM and torque. The RPM, or revolutions per minute, determines the stroking speed of the machine, while the torgue indicates the sort of play and size of toy with which it will perform acceptably.

If you see a motor taking in 60 watts 4 amps at 15 volts with a claimed horsepower rating of 0. You get the lies for free. For a sex machine, you want a gearmotor, a motor that directly drives a gear reduction system to provide a reduced output speed and increased torque. I cannot count the number of people who have tried building a sex machine from a treadmill motor Gearmotors come in two basic configurations.

Parallel shaft gearmotors have the output parallel to the armature or motor can , while in right angle motors the output shaft is at a right angle to the armature. Most parallel shaft motors are face mount, mounting with typically four bolts into the face of the motor, the same end the output shaft is on. Most right angle units are foot mount, with bolts running into the base of the gearbox. Some motors of either style incorporate a mounting plate from the motor can.

There are occasionally face mount right angle motors, too. This must match the mounting diameter of the offset pin arm or flywheel used with the motor. Output shafts generally have a keyway, and at least with my parts you will tighten a set screw into the keyway to hold the offset part in place.

Some motors also or only have a flat on the shaft. In the torque range on a sex machine, we don't need to employ a key. A motor's voltage is important in the selection or development of a power supply. I primarily offer motors rated for 90 to volts DC. AC motors can certainly be used, but they are less efficient to control, and controls for them are more expensive. I occasionally have 12 VDC motors. They may be run with the fan control circuit at the bottom of this page, as long as you add a You can hijack one from an old not new battery charger.

If you're overseas in a country with VAC power grid, you can either build a VAC machine and employ a voltage converter, or you need a motor rated for VDC.

The Powerline control system below is excellent for either grid power but not 12 volts , but must be matched to an appropriate motor. A brief word about motor brands. First, there is absolutely no comparison between American and Chinese-made motors. Chinese motors are larger and heavier and louder, have soft brushes, and are less efficient. They will happily burn up, especailly if stalled for any length of time.

The only advantage is that they're cheap. Unless they're labeled for a US importer, such as Dayton some motors only , they are almost always overrated, particularly in torque. The major American brands in sub-fractional gearmotors are Bodine, Baldor, and Leeson.

Of these, Leeson motors tend to be higher performing units for a given horsepower, and are usually rated for 90 VDC with a "form factor" of 1. Bodine motors are of extremely high quality, and are the quietest motors available in my opinion.

Baldor is also a quieter motor than the Leeson units, which are relatively noisy for an American motor. Finally, you will note that I do not generally have pictures of motors below. I price the used motors at a small markup, and it's frankly not worth my time to take and process pictures of them.

Further, many motors I list are gone within a week. I apologize, but I also do not provide pictures on request. If you do see a motor you want, particularly if the listing does not indicate that I have multiples, and double-particularly if it is a larger higher torque motor, you might want to grab it. Such units do not last long, and it is always a struggle to find them in good condition at an attrictive price. Every used motor I sell is thoroughly tested and accurately described.

Includes Probe frame body, two legs , Probe motor Chinese 90 watt RPM , American-made motor speed control, and all other components to complete a Probe machine.

Kit does not include a dildo system Link to comprehensive video instructions provided. Probe Plus Complete Kit: Beast model provides strokes to 8", 45 in-lbs torque for exceptional performance. Probe Beast Complete Kit: High quality motor control, fully adjustable for both minimum speed and maximum speed.

This control will overvolt most motors if desired, which is generally safe to about 1. IR COMP setting senses motor draw versus set speed, and feeds more power to motor when choking under load Includes power cord, OrgasmAlley hand control with XLR plug, wired power and control jacks, blade connectors, wire nut for grounds. This is a complete solution between the wall and a motor, not including either the wall or the motor. Cast aluminum double-gang exterior-grade box with steel cover, modified to mount contol board and two jacks.

This aluminum enclosure also provides heat sink capacity, increasing Powerline capability from 2A to 4A. Painted black, four screws that hold cover to box is the only included hardware. Not as precise as more complex units, far inferior to powerline 2 above.

Sex machines with baldor motor

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